Shaxi

In contrast to the Fort Lauderdale/ Las Vegas-style, frenetic energy of Lijiang,  Shaaxi is a sleepy, boutique destination.  

I am writing this from the quiet, Sideng market square where I sip a perfect cappuccino observing interesting parade cross the square in front of me - a pig ambles by, followed by a group of Chinese college students, Canadian adventure travelers cycling in from Dali,  an Italian French couple (who even acknowledged that the wine, cappuccino and pizza is as good as in Italy). 

We enjoy visiting every single, precious little courtyard guesthouse that line the alleys radiating off the central square before choosing the Shaxi Guzong Horse House where the grandmotherly innkeeper fusses over us and we play drinking games late at night in the courtyard with the Chinese art students..



The valley around Shaaxi is also perfect for running --  I do 12k at sunset amidst these golden fields of rapeseed and onion.